Before strain guage based load cells became the method of choice for industrial weighing applications, mechanical scales utilizing levers were widely used. Around 7000BC the equal armed balance scale was used by Sumerians for weighing precious metals and gems. The balance scale consists of a beam oscillating around a fulcrum and carrying a pan at each end. Weighing with a balance scale involves comparing standard weights of known mass with an object of unknown mass There are records from around 3000 BC showing that a balance scale was used by Egyptians for general trade purposes.

Around 55BC the Romans brought steelyard scales to Britain. A steelyard differs from the balance, which has equal arms, because it has a beam with unequal arms. The steelyard is suspended from a hook, whose position represents the fulcrum. The shorter arm is fitted with a hook to hold the object being weighed. A counterweight, called a counterpoise, can be shifted along the length of the longer arm. The counterweight is moved until the longer arm reaches horizontal equilibrium. The weight is read from the position of the counterpoise on the steelyard. Graduated scales were marked on two or three sides of the steelyard beam giving the steelyard two or three capacity ranges.

In 1830 Thaddeus Fairbanks build the first platform scale by digging a pit for the lever arms of the scale, placing the platform level with the ground. The platform scale ended the task of having to hoist the entire load onto the scale.

In 1843, English physicist Sir Charles Wheatstone devised a bridge circuit that could measure electrical resistances. The Wheatstone bridge circuit is ideal for measuring the resistance changes that occur in a strain guage. The first bonded resistance wire strain guage was developed in the 1940s, roughly 97 years after Sir Wheatstone invented his circuit. At that point modern electronics caught up, and made the new technology of the strain guage feasible.

In 1973, the first fully electronic precision balance was introduced by Mettler Instrumente AG.

Today, except for certain laboratories where precision mechanical balances are still used, strain guage load cells dominate the weighing industry. Even in environments where a mechanical scale might do as well, a load cell is often used because of its compatibility with digital, computer-based instrumentation.

Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com

Did you know that rain barrels are a great way to collect rain water from your roof. The newest rain barrels not only collect rain water they also have a hose spicket attached for ease of watering. You can build rain barrels from scratch or purchase them already made. They come in all different sizes, colors and shapes. Generally water barrels can hold anywhere from between 35 to 55 gallons. For greater capacity you may connect unlimited barrels together. Rain barrels don’t take away from the beauty of your home they can enhance any home depending the quality and design you choose.

Also rain water is much better for your plants then common tap water any day of the week. Using rain water to water your plants around your home will make them to grow as if they where still in the wild. So the next time you water your plants you won’t have to watch your water bill go up. Instead you will save on your water bill plus help grow your plants in a more natural way. Plus add appeal and beauty to your home. Its really a win win solution! To see some great water barrels please follow this link. http://gutterhelp.com.

Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com

conservatory design
To enjoy the beauty of your garden from the comforts of your home, you’ll need a timbered extension that can harmonise the natural aspects of your flora and fauna, with the man-made features of your bricks and mortar. Adding extra living space to your home will not only free up another room in the house, it will also add value to your property. If you install a contemporary hardwood conservatory then not only will you give yourself that valuable extra living space, you’ll be adding a design feature to your abode. Of course you’ll want to employ conservatory design experts who can work with the space available and create the most charming of conservatories that compliments your habitat. For experienced professionals who have a growing list of satisfied clients that can give testimony to their superior craftsmanship, it’s certainly worth looking at Heartwood Conservatories. Their specialised team of qualified consultants can create a conservatory design that adds sympathetic space to your home. What’s more, they’ll take all your requirements into consideration and give you a classy conservatory that comes right within your budget. Your conservatory will be made from the finest of hardwoods that has been carefully selected from environmentally responsible merchants. It’ll incorporate the latest glass technology, which means your conservatory will be warm for Christmas dinner and cool for summer evenings. Installed by time served craftsmen, this beautiful addition to your home will enhance and enchant, improve and impress and with a conservatory design from Heartwood, you’ll enjoy many happy hours sat in your hardwood haven.
For More information relating to this article please visit
http://www.heartwood-conservatories.co.uk

Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com

Central heating problems

Cold top section of radiator
This is usually an indication that air has got into the system somewhere and has become trapped. Air in a radiator will rise to the top forming a pocket stopping the hot water from getting to that part. This can be released, but remember to turn the heating off first. Now, armed with a rag beneath, use a radiator key to slacken the air bleed valve which is at one end towards the top of the radiator. There will be a hissing sound as the air comes out. As soon as water begins to flow, close the vent again and wipe away any water. Take care not to get scalded – the water may be pretty hot. The heating can then be switched back on.
Some systems have an automatic air release valve fitted. This usually has a small red top which should be slack to enable the air to escape
Radiators should not need frequent ‘bleeding’. If they do, air is getting in and this should be sorted out by a professional heating installer
Cold bottom section of radiator
This is a sign of rust and sludge build up which is sitting in the bottom of the radiator. Following the guides on removing and refitting a radiator, take the radiator outside and flush it through with a hosepipe. If you have the radiator standing on end, you should be able to flush out most of the sludge. Remember to carry the radiator upside down so you don’t get sludge dripping on to your carpet.
With an open vent system, you may also consider using a proprietary heating system sludge remover. This will mean adding it to the feed and expansion tank and, a few days later, emptying and refilling the system. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Upstairs radiators cold
This is most often an indication that the feed and expansion cistern in the loft has run dry. This should not happen and indicates another problem which needs to be sorted. It’s probable that the ball valve is not operating correctly. It may have jammed or be obstructed. Clear any obstruction or replace worn parts. Remember when refilling and adjusting the ball valve that there must be enough room for the water to expand when the system heats up. Therefore, when the system is cold, there should be just enough water to make the ball to float and switch off the water coming in.
Downstairs radiators cold
This is an indication that the pump has packed up. Have it tested and, if necessary, replaced.
All radiators cold or not very warm
This again is an indication of the build up of rust and sludge. See ‘Cold bottom section’ above.
Radiators cooler in one area of the house
This tells you that the radiators are not properly balanced. The nearest radiators to the boiler are taking more than their share of the hot water from the system. See page on balancing the system.
Warm radiators upstairs when the heating is off, and hot water is on
If this happens, it is probably because the check valve on a gravity fed system has failed. In a gravity fed system, the hot water cylinder is heated by water from the boiler which flows due to the gravity and not a pump. To prevent the water also heating the radiators when the heating is off, a check valve is fitted. If this has failed, the radiators upstairs will begin to receive some of the heat. The valve will need to be replaced by a heating engineer.
No heating or hot water
Make sure that the power supply is on and that a fuse hasn’t blown. Remember, if a fuse has blown, you should always rectify the cause first. As always, take great care with any electrical inspection or work. See electrics safety
Check that the gas or oil supply has not been turned off inadvertently. In the case of oil, check that you actually have some oil in the tank by reading the gauge
Check that the programmer is in the on position and that the thermostats are turned up high enough
Check that the pump is running. If not, get a heating engineer in to investigate.
Check that the pilot light is lit. If it isn’t, follow the details for relighting in the boiler manual
If none of these solve the problem, it’s time to call in a heating engineer.
Feed and expansion tank overflowing
If the ball valve is not closing off the water supply properly, the cistern will continue to fill and water will come out from the overflow pipe. The usual cause is either a poorly adjusted valve or a worn washer. These can both be remedied in a similar fashion to the ball valve of the cold water storage tank.
For a large collection on boiler repair/service manuals please visit
http://www.gedi.co.uk/centralheating.html

Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com

MOISTURE AND TERMITES
In my 16 years experience treating and repairing damage, I still wonder how much of it could have been be avoided. Much of it can with simple steps, as in regular inspection for rising damp/termites, and good sub-floor ventilation.
The moment you suspect any thing awry, action is required urgently by experts in this field. When house construction was carried out in the 1930’s - 1970’s, damp course membranes were mainly of slate, and flexibility was non-existent. Now we see rising damp and termite problems occurring frequently.

The current Australian standards allow for better construction methods, and so we are getting better control and warnings of these problems before they occur. It is a great advantage stopping or preventing damage before it gets out of hand.
Three Vital Steps You Can Do To Minimize Damage To Your Home
1. Have an expert come to inspect your wall moisture levels using a moisture meter. This will detect rising damp.
2. Get an inspection carried out for termites by a qualified home builder who is also a licenced timber pest inspector. An added advantage if they are members of the Master Builder’s Association (M.B.A.) or Housing Industry Association (H.I.A.)
3. Once any problem has been identified, take action as soon as possible and arrange for protection.
If poor ventilation is identified as been the problem, subfloor fans may need to be installed to allow for correct air flow. If its termites, a chemical barrier may be needed, or a baiting system may be recommended. Termite baits help identify activity of termites on your site, alongside of regular inspections. They do NOT attract termites, they intercept them BEFORE they get a chance to enter your home.

One client I recall had called me to check to see why all her clothes were covered in mould. Upon entering her house I noticed a musty smell. I advised that I cut a floor trap for inspection access to her subfloor. When I got under her house, I noticed 300ml of water! The substructure timbers had decayed extensively from excessive moisture. When I came out from under the house, she wondered why I was soaked in water. I replied, “I didn’t know you had a in-ground pool!

It turned out my client had been living with mould for eight years and didn’t think much of it. In conclusion, we organised a plumber improve drainage, our firm installed a ducted subfloor fan system with a rectified damp-course. About six months later we reinspected the subfloor and it was completely dry.

The skill of inspections and moisture meter readings is a science of interpretation, so experience by the contractor is in these fields are vital. Only choose a home builder and termite inspector who can show proof of their qualifications and experience.

Sydney Building Repairs supply the following services:
Termite Inspections
Subfloor Ventilation
Damp-Course Remedial Work
Waterproofing &.General Building Repairs

Article by Joe Alexander Ovidi, Member M.B.A., H.I.A.,
I.P.C.A. (International Pest Control Association)
Building Contractor Lic. 171866C
Timber Pest Inspector Lic No. 2003

Mobile 041605383 - Please Call For a Free Quote
joe@buildingrepairs.com.au
www.buildingrepairs.com.au
www.subfloorfans.com.au

It is a condition of use that you don’t alter this article without permission from Ovidium Enterprises Pty Ltd, reference the author (Joe Ovidi), and provide a link back to www.home-builder.com.au

Member I.P.C.A. (International Pest Control Association)
Building Contractor Lic. 171866C
Timber Pest Inspector Lic No. 2003

Mobile 041605383 - Please Call For a Free Quote

joe@buildingrepairs.com.au
www.buildingrepairs.com.au
www.subfloorfans.com.au

It is a condition of use that you don’t alter this article without permission from Ovidium Enterprises Pty Ltd, reference the author (Joe Ovidi), and provide a link back to www.home-builder.com.au

Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com

The major feature to any landscape is the attraction of the eye to it. Therefore, in planning your landscape, think about how your landscape can “stand out” from others in your area. The use of less common and “interesting” plants and a design that “draws the eye to it” will achieve this.

Either you can hire a landscape designer or, if you feel confident enough to do it yourself, buy some landscaping software or books and put it all on paper. You don’t have to do your whole plan all at once, but it’s important to get everything down on paper so you have a unified vision of what you want to do, planning is vital.

Where is your future garden located? Is it visible to neighborhood, or to your eyes only? Does it receive full sun, or is it shaded part of the day? What is the soil type? All of these factors need to be considered during your planning phase, and will help you out with your plant choices.

Think about the entire space and the overall effect you want to achieve. Don’t limit your ideas to trees, shrubs, and grass. Consider a patio, deck, screening wall, outdoor lighting, a new walk, or a parking area as possible landscape features. Think about what you are trying to accomplish with your landscaping. If you are interested in attracting wildlife or keeping neighbors from peering in, keep this in mind so that your landscaping can serve this purpose.

Landscape gardening takes a lot of work. Rather than having your garden turn into a construction zone, it is best to do things one stage at a time. This helps keep costs down and makes the plan flexible to changes.

Money can be saved by buying these materials during the “off” seasons. Wood for example is cheaper during the winter months. The price of shrubs and soil are lower when you buy late in the season.

Check the prices of your local stores that sell gardening equipment and supplies. You can also do some surfing on the web, and by comparing the prices that you can get nearby and those available elsewhere, there is a chance that you can get the same thing at a more affordable price.

Rosie Reynolds provides more information and tips on landscape gardening on her website: http://www.landscape-gardening-tips.com/

Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com

Until quite recently the vacuum cleaner was a humble servant of domestic cleaning; locked away for the most part and unloved. But how times have changed? Those were the days before Oreck promised to lighten our load, before Dyson bamboozled us with science and garish colours, and Miele offered us ultimate cleaning power with the stylish lines of a German sports car.

It used to be so simple. You either bought a model from a door-to-door salesman or you went to your local hardware shop and bought pretty much the same sort of vacuum your parents bought. The vacuum cleaner hadn’t changed in eons. It was what it always was; heavy, rather ugly and noisy. But not anymore.

These days the hapless buyer is overloaded with the latest technical advances, beguiled by the latest colour and styling and confused by the slick marketing techniques used to push these ‘design icons’ upon us. So how do you make that difficult choice? How do you buy the right vacuum cleaner and avoid universal ridicule from friend and family? If you are thinking of buying a vacuum cleaner, you should think about the following points. Only by knowing what your requirements are can you make the right choice.

What type of flooring do you have? The vacuums of today are specialist - in case you didn’t know. You’ll want to buy a certain make of vacuum for fitted carpet from a vacuum that’s going to be used for hardwood flooring. You’ll need to pay close attention to the vacuum heads. Also, what type of attachments will you needs? Do you have curtains to clean? Windowsills? High alcoves?

Canister or Upright? Back in the good old days just about all came as upright. Then someone had the bright idea of the canister! But seriously, do you have a lot of stairs? If so, you may prefer the canister. But if you have fitted carpets you may prefer the greater suction power afforded by most uprights? Which do you find easier to handle. Most think that a canister is easier to handle but Dyson have recently introduced a ball into the head of the upright model, making handling much easier.

What’s all this bagless nonsense? Until Dyson came along most vacuum cleaners were fitted with bags. Now most manufacturers offer bag or bagless models. Bagless models claim to offer suction power that never diminishes, even when the dust compartment is nearly full. They also allow you to see what has been sucked up, and easy retrieval - handy when you’ve just vacuumed up something you shouldn’t have. However, emptying a bagless vacuum can be a messy affair for some people.

A filter used to be a piece of foam in most vacuum cleaners. Not anymore. These days many people are concerned and affected by allergens in the air. Vacuum cleaner manufacturers have responded by introducing HEPA filters. The problem with older vacuums is that a certain amount of dust was sucked in and blown back into the atmosphere. Vacuums fitted with HEPA remove 99. 97 percent of particles 0. 3 micron in diameter (or larger) from the air that passes through them.

Attachments and Extras: What attachments do you require? What length of electrical cord would you like? You should buy a model that has at least 20 feet of cord. The hose should be at least 5 foot long.

Service: This is one thing that hasn’t changed. Top manufacturers have always prided themselves on after sales service. This is still true today. However, some models of vacuum cleaners are more expensive to repair than others.

Finally, how much are you prepared to pay? The rule of thumb is that the more you pay the better the product you’ll be getting. But this isn’t always so. Some manufacturers rely very much on their reputation; as a consumer you usually pay for this.

Robin O’Brien is founder of a website dedicated to promoting the best rated vacuum cleaners available on the market today; including Hoover, Kirby and Electrolux vacuum cleaners amongst others.

Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com